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We'll have gardenin' & landscapin' tips, and ideas for all your lawn & gardenin' problems. We'll have project ideas right here and anything to do with "how to make ya's outside chores in the yard and gardens, made simple. Hope y'all find some helpful tips and informative ideas here. They'll be photos of our flowers and shrubs, our lawns and landscapin', throughout the different seasons of the year. That means "ROCKS and different CACTI too!! |
A belated HAPPY NEW YEAR everybody! Can y'all believe it, 2010 is here!! We're into the second week of a brand new year. Like so many across the United States and the world, we are still tryin' to unthaw from the artic-blast that hit us a little over a week ago. We did have a white Christmas with a 2 - 3" blanket of snow. The temperatures were in the teens to low 20s in the daylight hours, but rested in the mid teens durin' the night. Then, the deep-freeze hit us, a week ago last Thursday (New Year's Eve). It stayed mainly in the upper single digits to low teens durin' the day, then, at nightime, it would dip down to near 0°F. On top of the frigid temperatures, we received another additional 4 - 5" of fresh snow. Our lowest temperature at the ranch dipped to a -4°F the first weekend of the new year. Sunday, January 10th, was our very first day above freezin' (32°F). We topped out at 33.7°F. It seemed like we'd never get above the freezin' mark, but the last two days now, it's made it. Monday we reached a balmy
Buffalo Jim received a "weather station" for Christmas; a fabulous gift idea for those of us who find meteorology fascinatin'!! It has intrigued us both to learn more 'bout it. Check out my "Yearly Garden Maintainence" guide below to see what should be done durin' the months of January and February. Yes, it's time to start thinkin' 'bout those spring and summer gardens. You should start receivin' your seed catalogs anytime in the mail. For those of you who like to shop online, just go to your favorite seach engine and type in your favorite seed catalog companies. Then ya can go, "SEED SHOPPIN'"!! Alot of us folks are tryin' to go"Green", so find a good spot and place a rain barrel and start catchin' rain now, for summer.
I am COLD!! I want warm temperatures, soon. Please hear my request!!
I gotta go get warmed by the fire. Stay tuned, for updates!! Later!!
We watched the snow fallin' from inside a warm home, when it started last Friday mornin'. It was sure pretty on the trees this time. Guess I was so glad there was no ice affixed on the snow-covered tree limbs!!
On Saturday, I was glancin' out the window here in the office. What did I see but a yearling doe standin' right by the staircase that goes up to our front porch-deck. I told Buffalo Jim what I saw. We watched it as it ventured in the drive area, just beyond the front patio. Buffalo Jim went and got the camera and took some pictures of her. She would look our way several times but never ran off. She could see us peerin' out the window, but it seemed she knew she was in no danger. Then, fifteen minutes or so went by, and then, we saw two more yearling does, comin' from the eastern property and joined her, nibblin' on some dead butterfly bush remnits. They ventured on down the eastern side of drive and nibbled on a dead shrub (further on down in the yard). Buffalo Jim took some more pictures and watched them for awhile longer. Then, they left as easily as they came. That was quite a site!! The first doe had been within fifteen feet of us orginally (We were inside of our home and she was outside just beyond the patio).
I know the groundhoung will probably see his shadow a little later on today, but for a treat, wouldn't it be great if he didn't. I'm ready for warmer weather to stay 'round undefinitely. 'Til then, y'all have a great day!!
I apologize, I promised I'd try and post in my gardenin' journal every week and I failed to do so. !! I'll try and do lots better!
The first week of February, we did receive another 2-3" of the "white stuff", but thank the Lord it was all snow.
It's almost all gone now, with the tempertures bein' above 32°F most of this week and lows in the 20s at night. We had only a few hours of sunny skies one afternoon, the rest, they were cloudy. No more snow has fallen.
They they are predictin' more snow or snow showers early on next week. No, no, no more snow!! Drats!! This a rap up of what it suppose to be like this comin' week for us here at th ranch. Today (Sunday the 14th of February), we're suppose to have variable clouds with snow showers or flurries. It'll be cold. The highs are only suppose to reach 'round 30°F. The winds, NW at 15 to 25 mph they say. Our snow chances, 40%. Tonight, the snow showers should start tapering off to some flurries overnight. The lows in the mid teens. Tomorrow (Monday), intermittient flurries and snow showers are predicted early on. It's suppose to be another cold day, reachin' in the upper 20s. There's also another slight chance of snow. By tomorrow night, very cloudy early on and they clouds will be decreasin' late and the lows, only in the mid-teens. Brrrrr!! Tuesday through Thursday, Mostly sunny. Yeehaw!! The highs in the low 40s and lows in the mid 20s. There might be some clouds on Thursday, but still some sun. Yippee!! Friday, a few snow showers may appear. The highs are gonna be in the mid 30s and the lows in the mid 20s. The weekend looks good. May be balmy once again, as it's suppose to be mostly cloudy and the highs in the upper 40s and lows in the mid 20s for both days. Now, I could go for that!! But I would be a much happier camper, if we started to have warmer days and they would usher in SPRING early this year!! How 'bout it folks, wouldn't y'all go for that? Well, let's hope for the latter and Spring does arrive earlier than usual.
I'll be postin' images of the yearlin' doe and the other two doe we had visitin' us the last weekend of January. They're still in the camera and the "view photo" on it shows the picture clearly. Keep watchin' for them, as I will post them here in my journal soon.
 
 
I'll get back with y'all in a day or two, 'til next time, have happy trails!!
It's been more than a day or two and please forgive me. I got side tracked again. Been a busy week!! The weather hasn't been too bad this past week. OK, I know it's still be a bit cold, but we have had definite signs that Spring's not that far away. This last week, Buffalo Jim and have seen a few large flocks of geese and they were headin' North, not South. We welcomed some robins back, as that's one big sign Spring is 'round the corner. It's still cold at night, but it does seem the daytime temperstures are gradually risin' by a few degrees. Oh, we could have another bout or two with sleet, ice and snow, but mostly, I believe all that stuff is behind us, or, I sure hope it is!! I have seen a few crocuses startin' to pop through the ground. Grape hyacinths are startin' to pop up also. I do see signs of my red and my white bleedin' hearts tryin' to start peekin' their heads through the ground. The daffodills are startin' to come up. It's still a little cold at night, but the above mentioned can stand the colder temperatures better, than some of the other springtime flowers. This week looks like it's gonna be very nice. Suppose to be partly sunny through mid-week, reachin' in the low 40s and the mid to upper 20s at night. Later on in week, it's gonna be in the 50s and might even reach 60 one day. Now I could live with that!! 'Til next time ........ y'all have lots of Happy Trails!! |
Summer of 2005, Buffalo Jim and I extended the rest of the east yard on down.
When it was warm enough, we'd worked some in the east yard area, earlier in the year. We cut out the scrub trees to open it up a bit. There were it seems, thousands of smaller boulders stickin' out of the ground slightly. We're still removin' some of the boulders as they mess up the lawn mowers when we mow in the warmer months.
We have some 'wild blackberry vines' that we need fixed up on a trellis of some kind so they won't be growin' so wildly. Love blackberry jelly!!
Buffalo Jim surprized me by clearin' out the east side of our yard area closer to our home, down to the wet weather spring (as we call it).
Seems like outside work and chores are never done!
Below are some photos of some the flowers, shrubs, and our landscape here at the ranch.
~Buffalo Gal~
This is a photo of our vegetable garden, taken on July 12, 2006. It was only 20ft by 30 ft, but there was an abandance of produce from it. In the foreground there were burpless cucumbers, cantalope and yellow meated watermelon vines. Next inline were the three rows of the 'Blue Lake' bush green beans. Just beyond them were the different sweet peppers. Next was the eighteen tomato plants. Then, you saw the sweet corn, three rows. The peas had already been shelled and eaten in this photogragh. Our green onions and onions were on the far end and you could't see them for the sweet corn. For a small space, it was alot of food we did't have to purchase!
Our white clematis at the west entrance to the *Happy Trails Garden*. It's a couple of years old. It's blooms are 3-4 inches in diameter.
This is a photo our violet colored clematis vine on our trellis that Buffalo Jim rebuilt last spring after the strong winds blew it over. It's blooms are 3-5 inches in diameter.
This clematis is Nelly Mosler, a pink and white striped bloom that's 4-5 inch in diameter. It is a gorgeous climber.
This lavendar clematis grows on the southeastern side of our home. It orgininally was a deep purple shade, but when it bloomed the followin' season and since then, it's retained the beautiful shade of lavendar color that you see here. It's gorgous!
This is a photo of my main, red and white bleeding hearts. The red one is a start of my mom's bleeding heart that I got from her in 2002. The white one is a Mother's Day present I received in 2003. Since that time, I've gotten several starts from both of them. I've planted the starts in a few other places 'round the landscape, and I've given starts to friends and family.
This is a red bleeding heart that came up this year by volunteer. You can see the clarity of the red color better; from this photo.
Hear's a couple of the lillies we have planted. The bigger one to the right is a rasberry color. We've had it a few years. The deep orange one on the left (towards the front) is just over a year old. They call it a tiger lilly, but it's not like the old fashion ones we used to have when I was a youngster. I don't see too many of those anymore. Wonder if they still produce them? If any of ya know if they do, and where to get the old fashion, medium orange tiger lillies with the dark spots on them, please send me an email. It's located under the navigation menu on this page. I'd surely appreciate it!
Take a look at the beautiful photos below that Buffalo Jim captured last spring. Aren't they just gorgeous of the sun risin' up in the eastern sky, in the early hours!
This is a magnificant shot of the sun rise. It's just breakin' through the trees.
This was taken just a few minutes later than the photo above. The pinks and blues in the sky are so pretty against the dark shadows of the early morn!! VERY WELL DONE BABE! Oops, I mean Buffalo Jim.
Pardners, I started a project, summer of 2003. I cleared brush and small scrub trees on the northeast part of my back yard. The project is a special garden area. It's called the
"Happy T rails Garden"
**Happy Trails Rose Arbor**
Here is what the *Happy Trails* rose arbor looked like when we got through with it then. I planted multi-colored pansies in the center, surroundin' the squirrel bird bath. That was what was planted 'round Roy and Dale's restin' place when we visited them, durin' the 2003 Roy Rogers Film Festival in Victorville,California in mid February. The squirrel bird bath represents the many animals Roy shot to help feed his family durin' the depression in the 1930's. After the pansies died down, I planted green tipped with red, and red hen and chickens all 'round the perimeter of the round plantin' bed. Some of these we aquired when we visited with Painted Pony & Music Man the second time.
I ordered roses for the arbor, special Roy & Dale roses, and "in honor" rose markers from Jackson & Perkins. I selected yellow and reddish orange roses to climb up the sides of the arbor.
The special roses to honor "The King of the Cowboys" and "Queen of the West" are
"Peace" ..... for Dale.
These two roses are very significant! The Veteran's Honor rose represents the many servicemen and women that Roy & Dale entertained throughout the world, through the years. They even went privately to visit many servicemem and women on their own! The Peace rose was named, the day Berlin fell to the Allies. The day peace was signed with Japan, it won AARS (All American Rose Selections) honors and members of the newly formed United Nations were presented with its blooms. So you can see they both are special roses.
*In Honor of Dale*
*In Honor of Roy*
Fall of 2003, Buffalo Jim extended our *Happy Trails Garden* 20 - 25 ft more on the east side.
When Sheila Reiboldt, (one of our Roy & Dale Extended Family members) visited Branson and the Roy Rogers - Dale Evans Museum, September 2004, she brought me a few rocks from the hills close to where Roy & Dale are restin'. I placed them in the 'rock garden area' inside the rose arbor.
The 'Happy Trails' roses were beautiful durin' the 2004 growin' season! One of the Golden Showers climbin' roses died. They were the ones climbin' on the 'Roy & Dale Arbor'. Dog gone it!! The roses grew so much durin' the season before! The rest of the roses grew nicely and bloomed until late November 2004.
I planted the start of our "Texas Duke" shrub in the *Happy Trails Garden* (that's what I call it, since I don't know the real name) and it has grown alot since we first planted it back in the spring of 2004. I got it at "Sis" Shirley's in Sherman, TX. She's also a member of our Roy & Dale Extended Family.
The "bunny ears" have multiplied there in the *Happy Trails Garden* that I got starts of, when Buffalo Jim, Felina and I visited Painted Pony and Music Man (they were the first of our Roy & Dale Extended Family members that we met. The Hen n' Chicks are doin' good that we got from Painted Pony the same year. We drove to Ilinois back in January 2002 to meet them).
I added several small forsythia bushes along the east side of the *Happy Trails Garden*, that I started myself from forsythia branches in the spring of 2005.
I also added a variegated yucca along with two fesque grasses on each side of it. I thought I had lost the variegated yucca as it died down some, but a few shoots popped back up late in the summer.
I hadn't seen any shoots poppin' through the ground this spring, but a couple of days ago, I spied a couple shoots of the variegated yucca poppin' up through the ground. They were small shoots, but it ain't dead after all. YEEHAW!
The small forsythia bushes bloomed so pretty this spring with their yellow blossoms burstin' with alot of color!
The reddish orange roses on the Roy and Dale Arbor arbor are growin' really well and bloomin'. The yellow climbin' roses aren't doin' so good. This is startin' the third season. I replaced one of the Jackson & Perkins "Golden Showers" climbin' roses three years ago (2005). Guess I need to replace the other one as the remainin' original one; looks like it's dead. The one I replaced three years ago is alive, but it hasn't grown very much from the 2005 growin' season.
Here'a a closeup of the reddish-orange roses that are climbin' on the Happy Trails Arbor.
A closeup of the Peace rose in honor of Dale Evans, *Queen of the West*.
A closeup of the Veterans's Honor rose, in honor of Roy Rogers, *King of the Cowboys*.
*The Garden*
For The Garden Of Your Daily Living .....
1.Peace Of Mind
2.Peace Of Heart
3.Peace Of Soul
Plant Four(4)Rows Of Squash
1. Squash Gossip
2. Squash Indifference
3. Squash Grumbling
4. Squash Selfishness
Plant Four(4)Rows Of Lettuce
1. Lettuce Be Faithful
2. Lettuce Be Kind
3. Lettuce Be Patient
4. Lettuce Really Love One Another
No Garden Is Without Turnips
1. Turnip For Meetings
2. Turnip For Service
3. Turnip To Help One Another
To Conclude Our Garden, We Must Have Thyme
1. Thyme For Each Other
2. Thyme For Family
3. Thyme For Friends
"There Is Much Fruit In Your Garden"
Plan summer gardens and indoor seed planting and shop for your favorite seed varieties.
Weather permitting, prune grapes, fruit trees, small fruit and late-flowering deciduous shrubs.
Note areas of the garden where excess rainwater has built up, and make a point to improve drainage where water is pooling.
In snowy seasons, remove any heavy snowfall from bushes and evergreens to prevent branch damage.
Water plants under rooflines and close to the house, especially in dry winters.
Spray deciduous trees and shrubs with dormant oil and lime sulphur to prevent insect and disease during the growing season.
Clean up planting beds of debris and rotting materials, and turn compost heaps if temperatures are not below freezing.
Find a good spot to place a rain barrel, and begin collecting rain water now for summer.
If you haven't already, this is the time to get your seeds planted indoors for the garden this spring. Start your garden indoors in late January or early February for spring, for an even better garden this summer.
Starting Seeds Indoors
Get a head start on the season and enjoy early blooms and fresh vegetables. Starting your seeds indoors is perfect for those of you who live in areas where the growing season is short. You can enjoy the full fruits of your labors by getting transplants ready inside. Here's what you need:
Something to plant in —
Peat pots or planting trays are best, but cups, milk cartons and yogurt containers also work fine. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it won't dry out between waterings.
Growing medium —
This is more than just a fancy name for dirt. A seed-starting potting mix works best. Regular potting soil will suffice, but never use regular garden soil for any type of seed starting or containers.
Seeds —
Check the growing time on the packet. You don't want the seeds to be ready to transplant too early or too late. For most plant varieties, plan on growing them 6 - 8 weeks indoors. Also check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground.
A place to grow —
Seeds need warmth in order to germinate. One method is to put the containers on top of a refrigerator. After they sprout, sufficient light is a critical need. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it isn't too hot. Once you have all of the above accounted for, it's time to plant the seeds.
Lift, divide, and replant late-blooming perennials.
Finish pruning ornamental trees and spray with dormant oil; do not prune maples, birch, and walnuts until late July to September.
Most pruning can be done, except spring-flowering shrubs with buds.
Water all plants as appropriate, especially those located under rooflines and close to the house, especially in dry winters.
Apply dolomite lime to lawn at month's end.
Begin weed control in beds.
This also's the time to get out those hand garden tools, flower pots and containers and get them cleaned up (if you didn't already do it last fall).
You need to check out your lawn mowers, edgers, trimmers and etc, and get them tuned up and ready for the upcomin' season. (If it's a bit warmer and not still cold in your area).
Shop for flowering trees while they are in bloom for best selection.
This is the time to clear debris from the garden and prepare the soil. Clearing away leaves and debris reduces the possibility of fungi or diseases.
Break up the hard soil surface with a pitchfork or shovel. Enrich the soil by premixing compost, fresh soil and fertilizer and spreading it throughout your planting area.
Water and fertilize all plant material, including lawns and bulbs.
Weather permitting, plant hardy vegetables for an early crop.
Plant nursery stock.
Start uncovering tender perennials, roses, and the more delicate plant material, as weather permits.
Finish pruning roses and planting bare-root roses.
Enjoy the first of the spring flowering bulbs.
Plant early hardy vegetables until mid-month.
Prune early-blooming shrubs after they flower.
Now that the soil has softened some, it's time to address the lawn. Begin by raking the lawn gently and ridding it of sticks, dead plants and other debris.
Aerate the lawn with a core aerator; top dress and fertilize lawns; over-seed bare patches.
Obtain a seed that matches the exiting grass in the ground and thinly sprinkle it in the bare areas. Stamp the seed into the ground gently with the base of your shoe.
Lightly sprinkle topper soil over the seed and keep the ground moist for 10 days. Install a sprinkler if necessary.
Control dandelions before they flower by digging them from lawns and gardens. Now is the time to use weed control products in those areas where digging is not feasible.
Divide late-blooming perennials.
Fertilize cedar hedges with an evergreen food such as 30-10-10.
Check lawns for leather-jacket and control if necessary.
Weather permitting, plant summer-flowering bulbs.
If you have greenhouse space, begin planting up hanging baskets with starter plants.
Buy early bedding plants now. If the weather is still inclement, harden them off indoors or in a greenhouse, or provide night protection. Plant out after mid-month.
Dahlia tubers are best planted now with bone meal to help their development.
Plant patio containers for spring and summer bloom.
Plant new lawns or lay new turf.
Prune back and deadhead spring-flowering perennials. Remove seed heads from rhododendrons and azaleas.
Deadhead tulip and daffodil flowers, leaving green growth so that the bulbs can gather energy for next year.
Thin out annuals, especially those you have started from seed.
Fertilize lawns with organic or slow-release fertilizer.
Now is the time to address excess growth and pests. Clear away plant growth from the base of trees to at least a five-foot diameter.
Some plants can be thinned out by dividing them. Use a shovel to divide the root system into two separate, distinct plants. Only use this method with sturdy root systems. Consult a local plant nursery for advice.
While at the plant nursery, purchase ladybugs. Simply hose down the plants to knock pests to the ground, then release ladybugs at the ground level. Ladybugs prey on many garden pests without doing harm to the vegetation.
Continue watering bulbs until yellowed leaves can be gently pulled off.
Keep newly planted hedges, trees and shrubs well watered.
Plant out tomatoes, zucchini and cucumber.
Start roses on a monthly fungicide/insecticide spray schedule, if necessary.
Deadhead roses, annuals and perennials to promote more blooms.
Mulch garden areas to help preserve moisture and keep weeds down.
Continue planting annuals; water well and feed annuals and container plants once or twice a month with a bloom food like Nurseryland Power Bloom.
Water lawns and gardens wisely, preferably in the morning. Use soaker hoses in the garden for optimum water retention and to reduce waste.
Put water conservation efforts into place: use previously collected rainwater, plant xeriscape plants (plants which tolerate arid conditions) like sedum and euphorbia, water using soaker
hoses, irrigate in the morning.
Continue to deadhead roses, annuals and perennials to promote more blooms; water well.
Harvest raspberries and strawberries; remove unwanted strawberry runners on plants two seasons old or less. Begin new plants from runners on strawberries plants that have cropped for three summers.
Cut herbs for freezing and drying. Herbs can be sun-dried then stored in an air-tight container for future use. For the essence of fresh herbs when plants are past their prime, clip sprigs and freeze them into ice cubes.
Continue to feed gardens and container plants once or twice a month with a bloom food.
Water hanging baskets and patio plants at least once a day during hot, dry weather.
Lift daffodils and tulips for curing; use bulb dust for disease control, and store them in a paperbag or wooden crate filled with peat moss.
Thin grapes from the vine to increase the size and quality of the fruit.
Continue feeding plants in containers and hanging baskets; water daily during hot, dry spells.
Prune back wisteria and other vigorous climbers.
Harvest vegetables frequently and keep plants well watered.
Hill potatoes with soil or mulch.
Cut back raspberry canes that fruited this year.
Plant peonies now.
Divide perennials that flowered from spring to early summer.
Fertilize late-flowering plants.
Remove fallen fruit and vegetables to keep disease and pests away from crop plants.
Plant fall rye or legume mix in late August over garden areas now devoid of plant material. Fall rye and legume mixes can be used as cover crops to prevent erosion, as well as "green compost" to improve soil for the following season.
Look for autumn flowering favourites towards the end of this month. "Fall Magic" plants, pansies, mums and ornamental kales should be available by the last week of the month.
Plan and prepare beds for spring-bulb planting if it's gettin' cooler in your area. Amend the soil with or a mixture of well-rotted manure and bone meal. Add shredded bark mulch in areas where drainage is poor.
Begin planting spring-flowering bulbs if the weather begins to get alot cooler.
Continue to plant beds and containers for autumn and winter colour.
Observe the garden for drab areas now that summer flowering plants are almost finished. Add "winter colour" now: wintergreen and lingonberry are two excellent choices for winter colour.
Irrigate when needed, but slowly reduce watering so plants will get ready for winter.
Plant spring-flowering bulbs; use bulb dust for disease control.
Plant trees, shrubs & perennials, giving them a jump on next year. Autumn planting is extremely successful in milder climates.
Plant new lawns and fertilize once watering restrictions are lifted.
Fertilize all plants (except roses) and lawns with organic or slow-release fertilizer.
Allow lettuce to go to seed and feed the birds this winter.
Plant fall rye or legume mix if you haven't already.
Apply copper spray to selected fruit trees.
Check soil and add lime if required.
Plant winter color, preplanning for holiday gardens. Start projects like hanging baskets filled with wintergreen for holiday colour.
Clear beds of annuals by the end of the month and compost disease-free materials. Apply well-rotted compost as a top-dressing on garden beds.
Put sticky bands around trees to deter winter moths and their damage next season.
Cultivate in midwestern regions; enrich soil in areas you plan to sow in spring.
Continue to plant shrubs, perennials and spring-flowering bulbs while weather permits.
Dig up tender bulbs for storage; apply bulb dust for disease control.
Dig up carrots, beets and turnips and harvest cabbage for storing.
Don't forget to water plants close to the house or under rooflines.
Bring all tropical patio plants indoors; check them for pests before bringing inside and quarantine if necessary.
Make sure plants like dianthus and saxifrage don't get covered in leaves, as they will rot during wet winters. Protect if necessary with a cloche or upturned glass jar.
Lift, divide and replant spring- and summer-blooming perennials, weather permitting.
Add any clean dead growth from garden beds and containers to the compost.
Protect trees and shrubs from mice, rabbits and deer; do not use plastic to wrap plants as they will mildew. Burlap works best.
After the first few hard frosts, mound the bases of roses and less hardy plants with peat moss or other mulch such as compost.
Water all plants for winter; ensure adequate drainage so roots do not stand in water all winter.
Give roses a final deadheading and a light pruning; apply dolomite lime around established roses.
Plant indoor container gardens for colour through the holiday season.
Plan to rotate the crops in the vegetable garden next year.
Ventilate cold frames in mild weather.
Clean, sharpen and sterilize all tools for next season. Used pots can be scrubbed with a mixture of one-part bleach to ten-part water for reuse in spring.
Shovel clean snow around plants for extra moisture and insulation in areas where winter protection is a necessity.
Keep bird feeders filled with a quality seed. Clean feeders as they run out of seed and before refilling.
Lightly prune hollies and evergreens; use the clippings for wreaths and seasonal decorations
Add good-quality, organic amendments to soil to maintain its quality. Consult local nurseries to find soil type.
Change soil in potted containers once a year.
Determine whether the area in which you'd like to plant a garden enjoys full sun, partial sun or shade. Choose plants according to their requirements. For example, plants with green foliage generally prefer shade, while those with flowers prefer sunlight.
Basic garden tools include pruners, a shovel, rake, pickax and hand trowel.
When transferring a plant from container to ground, be sure to dig a large hole. Knock the side of the container to loosen soil and remove plant. The roots of the plant may be compacted, so loosen them to give them a better chance to grow. When placing in hole, make sure the top of the root ball is even with the soil level. Fill the soil around the plant, pressing with fingers to get rid of air pockets. Create a little basin around the plant to collect water.
Mulch keeps soil moisture in, weeds down, decomposes over time and adds an attractive touch to the garden.
Keep garden cleared of leaf debris and weeds.
Spraying insecticidal soap and water in the garden combats nearly any bug problem.
Any time is a good time to start a garden as long as the ground isn't frozen solid or soaking wet. For many new to gardening, starting small is the preferred choice. Bugs, weeds and diseases can often prove to be discouraging. As your confidence and abilities increase, so can the size of your garden!
Try to situate your garden in an area that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Typically, that's going to be a spot that faces either due south or southeast. Your garden also needs to be conveniently placed near the house and a water source. If you have a compost pile, place the garden in close proximity to make it easier to maintain. Keep your garden away from mature trees that could invade your soil with their roots. Underground utility lines should also be avoided for this reason.
Another important consideration is providing air circulation for your garden. Avoid keeping plants beside solid walls or fences. This will reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases attacking your plants.
To mark the perimeter of your garden, use a string attached to stakes, or use a garden hose. To keep grass from growing into the garden, use a border--plastic, metal, wood, stone or even a plain trench will serve this purpose.
Most likely, your garden will be covered with turfgrass. Do not till this grass into the soil as it will only produce thousands of tiny sprigs that will sprout again. Remove the sod with a shovel to a depth of about four inches and cart from the garden. Replace this sod with a mixture of leaves and compost to a depth of three or four inches. Water this area well for a week or two. If you see any weeds pop up, a slight tug will solve the problem. The sod you removed can be used to cover bare spots in the yard or can be stacked upside down and in layers to turn to compost later. If clay or rock is a problem in your garden, you can construct a frame on top of the ground for planting--be sure to use rot-resistant lumber! Once filled with organic matter, it's ready to plant.
Late March through April is the best time for plantin'. What better way to get prepared than to do a mouthwatering review of what's out there to grow in your own back yard in the spring. Let's count down to the #1 veggie. These are the top 10 vegetable crops in America. Here we go!! 10-9-8-7....
10. Corn
Native to Central America and planted worldwide since the 15th century, corn is a warm-season crop that requires plenty of fertilizer.
9. Radishes
Radishes are native to western Asia. The original radish was probably black-skinned , and it wasn't until the 18th century that the more familiar versions came along. The root vegetable arrived via European settlers and was planted in colonial gardens. Radishes are a cool-season crop best planted in late winter or early spring and again in late summer or early fall. Unfortunately, they contain almost no nutritional value but are great for adding zest to salads.
8. Carrots
Carrots, another cool-season crop, originated in Afghanistan. The first carrots were deep purple until a 16th-century mutation turned them orange. They are related to the poisonous hemlock and won't grow well in heavy soils.
7. Squash
Indigenous to the Americas, Squash comes in summer and winter varieties. Summer squash (crookneck, zucchini) should be planted when temperatures are consistently in the 70s. Winter squash (acorn, butternut, spaghetti) should be planted a month or so later and harvested as a fall crop.
6. Lettuce
Lettuce comes from the Mediterranean region and is another cool-season crop. Loose-leaf lettuce is nutritious; iceberg is more common but has almost no nutritional value.
5. Onion
Among the earliest of all food crops is the lowly Onion. In cultivation around 3000 B.C., onions were grown because they tasted good and were thought to enhance sexual potency. Onions can be grown from seed, although most gardeners plant sets in late winter or early spring. Scallions can be harvested just a few weeks after planting.
4. Cucumbers
While wild Cucumbers grew in the Himalayas some 10,000 years ago, domesticated varieties come from India and have been grown for the last 3,000 years. Cukes are great for salads but offer next to nothing in the way of nutrition.
3. Beans
An easy-to-grow, warm-season vegetable, beans came from Argentina or Brazil and are available in many tasty varieties--bush or pole beans, string, lima or dried beans. They will not tolerate cooler temperatures, especially if the soil is damp.
2. Peppers
Peppers got their start in South America (most probably central Bolivia) and range from mild to hot in flavor. They prefer hot growing conditions over cool ones.
1. Tomatoes
And here we are: Tomatoes are the number-one food crop grown in backyard America today. Botanically, these "vegetables" are really fruits. But we love 'em by the bushel no matter what they are!
Flowers
Spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips dependably grow year after year and signal the arrival of spring in a way no other group of plants can.
This is also a prime time to plant shade-loving perennials such as colorful columbines and dicentras, with their unusual bleeding-heart-shaped flowers.
Shrubs
Shrubs suitable for planting in the spring include the well-known forsythia and azaleas, both of which can make an otherwise bland landscape come alive with a dazzling display of flowers. Azaleas grow best where they receive afternoon shade and prosper in acidic soil dosed with a layer of mulch. Just before they bloom, azaleas should be fertilized.
During the spring, in the South, viburnums require shade in the afternoon to prevent their leaf tips from burning. In the North, however, most species can be grown in full sun. Available in a range of sizes, viburnums produce clusters of sweetly scented white flowers.
Spirea is a popular shrub that blooms in spring and requires very little care and maintenance. Most species have white flowers and are hardy in Zones 1 through 4, but at least four types of spirea produce pink flowers.
The old-fashioned fragrant lilac is a real beauty that has been popular and steadily improved upon for decades. Today more than two dozen species and 500 varieties are grown in the United States, and at least eight different colors are available.
Dazzling white flowers are also produced by fothergilla, a deciduous shrub related to witch hazel.
Trees
Among trees, a favorite is the dogwood. Dogwoods prefer afternoon shade even in the North, although well-established trees may survive full sun without too much tip burn.
In the United States some of the most widely planted spring bloomers are redbud and crabapple trees. Redbuds produce pink, purplish-red or white flowers and can reach an ultimate height of about 30 feet at maturity. Crabapples are popular because of their beautiful flowers, and unlike older varieties that suffered from all kinds of diseases, today's varieties require very little spraying or special attention.
Plants That Help Clear the Air
By Rosemary Sadez Friedmann
Scripps Howard News Service
Chrysanthemums and azaleas can literally clear the air in your home.
The quality of the air we breathe is important to health. Obvious truth? Sure. But how do we know if the air in our homes is clean? Other than allergies flaring up and telling us, there is no real way to know, but there are ways to ensure that the air is clean--even if we can't see it, smell it or feel it.
Buying an air ionic air cleaner is one great way to clear the air. Another is to have live plants in the house.
That poses more questions: How many and what kinds of plants? The Foliage for Clean Air Council suggests that one potted plant per 100 square feet of floor space can effectively remove pollutants from the air.
There are also specific plants that clean specific pollutants.
One very common pollutant is formaldehyde, as it is found in just about every household item. Here are some examples of items containing formaldehyde along with the antidote plants.
Plywood -- azalea
Particle Board -- dieffenbachia
Carpeting -- philodendron
Furniture-- spider plant
Clothes -- golden pothos
Paper Goods -- bamboo palm
Household Cleaners -- corn plant
Water Repellents -- mother-in-law tongue
Benzene is another offender. Here are the cures for various offenders:
Synthetic Fibers -- chrysanthemum
Plastics -- Gerbera daisy
Tobacco Smoke -- peace lily
Detergents -- English ivy
Circulating air via a fan, open window or air conditioner helps get these toxins moving so the plants can absorb them.
So buying a few plants can kill two birds at one time. They decorate the house and clean the air at the same time.
Clean and Trim
To clean the leaves of large accent plants, try using two sponges--one below the leaf and one on top.
Removing dust from the plant's leaves will improve its respiration.
Once plants are clean, you can add shine with a commercial plant-shine product. Hold the spray bottle about a foot above the plant and spray a fine mist over the leaves. Never spray plant-shine products on the underside of leaves, however. Specialized stomata cells on the bottom of leaves could be damaged.
Now it's time to trim the foliage and remove any spent blooms or dead leaves at the base of the plant. If you're eliminating branching leaves or stems, use the cuttings to propagate new plants!
Some plants that normally spend the warm months outside can become susceptible to insect infestations, such as spider mites, when they overwinter indoors. You can control the bug problem by making some "weather." Simply create a little wind and rain by spraying the infested plant with water, being sure to target both the tops and undersides of the leaves, where mites like to hide. Do this weekly to help fight mites and other creepy-crawlies.
Soft shell scale can be a little tougher to get rid of and calls for the use of some soap and water. Simply wash the leaves and stems of the plant (in this case, a Ponderosa lemon) with warm water mixed with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Rinse with clear water and then spray the plant with a good insecticidal soap, which is harmless to humans and works well to prevent future infestations.
Compost Bin
Right below are 3 easy steps and instructions in buildin' ya'll a great compost bin. Try it!! ...... Leaves are great raw material for compostin', and that makes fall a great time to build a compost bin. We'll give ya step-by-step instructions for buildin' a three-bin system. Slightly more involved than the traditional compost pile, the three-bin system allows for three stages of compost production. The first bin contains the rough stuff, or the raw materials. This is where ya'll want to put your fall leaves. The second bin contains semifinished compost; the third bin contains finished compost ...... First, choose a location that's close to the veggie garden; your system won't get used unless it's convenient. It should also be close to a source of water so that ya can soak it when necessary to keep it cookin' properly. The site should also receive a fair amount of sun. And don't put your bin too close to any tree roots because they will suck the nutrients right out of your compost. Ya probably don't have all of these things in your yard, so y'all have to compromise. Periodically prunes trees to expose the compost bin to sun, also trench the soil around the bin to keep nutrient-hungry roots out ...... In addition to being different from the traditional compost pile, this one costs a bit more as well. The $250 for the materials will pay for itself in rich compost in just two or three seasons. Or if ya have some of the materials, just lyin' 'round, ya can RE-CYCLE 'em too!!
Compost Bin - Step 1
Materials: pressure-treated lumber, heavy-duty wire mesh, 3½ inch galvanized nails, 2½ inch galvanized nails, safety goggles and a bandana.
Each bin measures four square feet. This makes the overall dimensions of the set of three bins 12 feet wide, 4 feet deep and 4 feet high. The bin itself is sturdy and freestandin' so that ya can move it if you want.
Now it's time to assemble the bin frames. Be sure to put on safety goggles and tie a bandana around your nose and mouth to protect yourself from debris.
Step-by-Step....Cut the pressure-treated lumber to size: eight 8-foot-long 2x4s. Make two cuts in each one--one at 45 inches and the other at 48 inches. This will leave ya with 3-inch blocks that can be discarded .... Begin making the bin frame. To do this, take two of the 45-inch pieces and two of the 48-inch pieces and nail them together. To make one 48-inch square (the depth of a 2x4 is actually 1½ inch --this will enter into your calculations when ya're buildin' the frame). Use 3½ inch galvanized decking nails. It's suggested usin' the "twisty type" to get a better hold. Make three more 48-inch-square frames. After your bin frames are complete, use a 12-foot-long 2x4 to fasten the bins together (stand each frame on end). On the 2x4, make two marks--one at 4 feet and one at 8 feet. These will be the center lines that will help ya line up the interior bin frames.
Compost Bin - Step 2
Note: Although 2x4s are sold as 12-foot pieces, they sometimes measure 146 inches instead of 144 inches. Before ya get started, you'll need to measure the board and trim any excess.
Hammer the top board first, followed by one at the bottom and another at the front (Fig. D). When ya attach the bottom and front boards, nail them to the inside of the frame for better support (Fig. E).... Cut off any excess using a hand saw, and drill pilot holes in the compost-bin frame to avoid splitting the wood during the next step.
Using wood screws, fasten 1x2 laths to the outside edge of each compost-bin frame (Fig. F).
Compost Bin - Step 3
Cut the 1x4 pressure-treated lumber into 48-inch pieces and, using 2½ inch nails, nail them to the lathing strip ya applied earlier (Fig. G). The space created by the lathing strip and the 1x4 will accommodate the planking that serves as the "door" (Fig. H). Cut the planking, using 1x6 deck planking. Rounded and smooth, it's great for a project like this because there are no splinters.
To make sure the dimensions at the front of your bin are accurate, attach a temporary 12-foot-long 2x4 to the top of the three-bin system and re-mark each bin. This ensures that your slats will fit perfectly.... Now ya're ready to drop the slats into the lathing that ya attached earlier. When the slats have been dropped, move the bin to its permanent place if it isn't there already and begin attaching the mesh.... Attaching the mesh is a two-person job: one person unrolls and holds the mesh in place; the other staples it onto the frame and makes sure it is tightly secured (Fig. I). Cover the outside first, then cover the areas between the bins.... Congratulations! Your three-bin composting system is complete. Now all ya have to do is start filling it.
Garden View Trellis
Design by Janet Merryfield
Project size
27x3 1/4x80 inches
Tools
Table saw or miter saw
Drill with 1/8-inch bit
Supplies
2x4 cedar: two 8-foot lengths*
1x4 cedar: 10 feet**
1x6 cedar: 3 feet**
20 1/2x25-inch weathered window sash with optional customized stained-glass panels
Decorative wood appliqué
24x40-inch piece of cedar lattice**
Exterior-grade wood glue
1 ¼" - and 2" screws
2" wire brads
80-grit sandpaper
*Use rust resistant fasteners to attach trellis to exterior wall. To use as freestanding unit, use 10-foot 2x4s, sinking one third of the post below ground level.
**The length of the 1x4 and 1x6 cedar pieces and the dimensions of the lattice will depend on the size of the window sash used; adjust measurements accordingly.
Source: Titebond III exterior wood glue.
1. Using table saw or miter saw, cut two 80-inch lengths from 2x4 cedar for sides; cut four 27-inch lengths from 1x4 cedar for cross pieces. Cut the 1x6 cedar to a 30-inch length; rip into 1½- and 2½ inch widths.
2. Referring to assembly diagram below, lay out 2x4s, window sash and lattice to determine desired placement and spacing.
Note: Window sash on model project is approximately 3½ inches from the tops and flush with the fronts of the 2x4s. Lattice is centered in the space between the bottom of the sash and the bottoms of the 2x4s.
3. Attach window sash to 2x4s with glue and wire brads, predrilling holes and nailing through rabbeted edge of sash.
4. Attach lattice to the backs of the 2x4s with sides flush, using 1¼ inch screws.
5. Attach 1x4 cross pieces to fronts and backs of 2x4s with 2 inch screws, covering top and bottom edges of lattice.
6. Glue the 1½ and 2½ inch widths together as shown in Fig. 1 below. Glue decorative appliqué to center. Attach to front of 2x4 posts at top of trellis.
7. Sand rough edges.
8. Install stained glass panels, if desired.
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